Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 2007

My colleagues and I toss around the name James Suckling as if it was Time Magazine, the New York Times, or CNN; we automatically assume that everyone knows who we're talking about. For those of you that don't know, James Suckling is a world-famous wine critic/journalist. Now publishing under his own name, he is the former Senior Editor and European Bureau Chief of Wine Spectator (maybe the best known wine journal in the world). James Suckling has always been an authority on European wines, and many of us in the business respect his opinions more than some others out there that seem to have flexible integrity.

In any case, James Suckling just released his "Top Ten Wines in 2012" list, a much more to-the-point version than the Top 100 list we've all come to laugh at. Well, I'm writing this blog post today, because a wine that I know very well is pretty high on that list - Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 2007.

Proprietor Vincenzo Abruzzese is an absolute rock-star in the world of incredible wine. While some people make very old-world wine, and others make new-world wine, Vincenzo can often be described as "in his own world." His attention to detail is mind-blowing. While he's never come right out an fessed up to any of these stories, rumors have it that he specifically had a unique strain of grass planted in his vineyards between rows of vines. This grass was selected because it would absorb just the right amount of water from the ground in order to make the vines struggle just a little to get their own water. Allegedly, if his vineyards yield any excess grapes in a particular vintage that he isn't going to use, he burns the access to that no neighbor or competitor might get the same quality of grapes to use for their wine. I've tasted many expensive Brunelli that didn't hold a candle to his less expensive Rosso di Montalcino, available at about half the price of most Brunelli.

The 2007 vintage was a very good vintage in Montalcino, and along with the fabulous 2006 growing season, the two vintages back to back represent quality that hasn't been seen before in my lifetime. When James Suckling originally reviewed the Brunello in January of 2012, this is what he had to say about his 98pt score: "What beautiful clear fruit here, with plums and spices and hints of flowers. Class. Full- bodied and luscious, this Brunello fills your mouth, with polished velvety tannins and gorgeous fruit. So wonderful and gorgeous. Irresistible. Better than 2006. Best after 2016."

And Wine Spectator said: "A big, muscular style, yet with sweet fruit to balance the dense tannins. Black cherry, plum, tobacco and soy flavors mingle, and this has some elevated alcohol on the finish. Best on the early side. Best from 2013 through 2024. 4,500 cases made."

And don't forget the 95pt Review from Wine Advocate's Antonio Galloni: "The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous. Dark red cherries, plums, spices, leather and tobacco wrap around the palate as this dense, powerful wine starts to open up. Expressive aromatics are woven throughout, giving the 2007 a measure of polish and sophistication that is not always present in this wine when it is young. Finessed, suave tannins reinforce an impression of elegance. The 2007 can be enjoyed with minimum cellaring, but it will also age gracefully for many years. Readers who want to try the 2007 today should give the wine plenty of air, as the more refined qualities only emerge over time. When tasted next to the 2006, the 2007 shows redder tonalities of fruit and less sheer muscle. Hints of tobacco, crushed flowers and spices wrap around the sensual finish. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. ...Vincenzo Abbruzzese has been one of Montalcino’s most consistent producers over the last few years, an impression that was reinforced during my visit earlier this year. I tasted every wine in cask, and they were all terrific. I also had a chance to revisit the 1988 and 1990 Madonna del Pianos, both of which have aged beautifully in bottle."

While we all know that the Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 2007 is an incredible wine, it's very exciting to have someone like James Suckling name it as his #3 favorite wine of the year. It should retail for somewhere around $100/bottle, a fraction of comparable quality from Bordeaux or Burgundy. If you've never had a bottle of the Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino, you should splurge (at least once) and buy a bottle. Better yet, buy two - one to drink immediately, and one to save for a few years and a special occasion!

Eli

Bibo Ergo Sum

P.S. - I realize that the wine in the picture is the 2006 Valdicava, but I thought it better to use my own photo and a different vintage as opposed to stealing someone else's picture just to get the vintage correct. Thank you for noticing, but the labels still look the same.

P.P.S. - If you need some help finding a bottle of this incredible wine, please feel free to email me!