Thursday, January 6, 2011

Terraces Napa Cabernet 1998


The big debate between California Cab drinkers, and the Italian/French wine lovers has been the ability to age wines.  Many people in the wine business, myself included, use the 5-10 year rule.  That is, only the best California reds age well, and 5-10 years is about their limit.  Good Italian and French wines will age for years, and the best are wasted if opened when younger than 5-10 years.

I have slowly become a big fan of the deep, dark, thick French and Italian wines over the past few years.  Although I can appreciate the lighter, sometimes jammy qualities of California wine, my tastes have definitely gravitated toward the European styles of wine.  So tonight, we're putting a few different concepts to the test.

1- This California Cab is 12 years old, did it hold up?
2- Will I like this more or less than the average young California Cab?
3- Do the 'experts' with Wine Speculator have any idea what they're talking about?

The Terraces, Napa Valley Cabernet, 1998 was reviewed back in 2001 by Wine Speculator.  Their "expert" gave it 84 points, and the following review:  "Lots of herbal flavors work their way into green plum and some slightly bitter, astringent flavors. Drink now through 2006. 410 cases made."

Now 84 points really doesn't seem like much, especially for a bottle that retailed for about $60 at the time it was released.  However, this has been sitting quietly in our wine cellar for about ten years, and will either be awesome, or awful; and I doubt it will fall anywhere in the middle.

Upon opening, the wet-end of the cork is very, very dark with some sediment present.  That's a good sign for me, it means the wine has been aging, rather than simply spoiling.  I pour a little into a glass, and it's obviously a little toward the rust-color that aged red wine has.  Still fairly dark for a 12 year old bottle, but the rust-color is definitely starting to show through.

I put my nose in the glass, and it smells more like a nice, soft bordeaux than it does a big Cali-cab.  Hints of subtle fruit, mellow aromas, and plenty of complexity.  The first sip follows right through with the same impression, French in style, all the way.  The Terraces is rich, but smooth; structured and lingering; tannic but silky.  Quite frankly, I love it!

I think this wine held up beautifully over the past decade!  I think someone like Ron would have liked it better 5-6 years ago, but I think it's perfect.  The bold tannins it was born with have softened and mellowed, and now it's perfect for someone that prefers that French, delicate style of wine.

What have we learned?
1- Some California Cabs can last a decade in the cellar.
2- I definitely prefer the "old" Cali-cabs to the young ones.
3- Wine Speculator still has no idea what they're talking about.

The Terraces Napa Valley Cabernet 1998
T.C.S.H. Rating - 9/10
Aka - Drink it if you got it!

Sent from a BlackBerry, please excuse the typos.

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